Bahia, north-east Brazil · Brazil
Brazil's first capital and the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture: pastel colonial streets, gilded baroque churches, drumming in the squares and a cuisine of palm oil, coconut and chilli.
Photo: Paul R. Burley · CC BY-SA 4.0
Salvador was founded in 1549 as the first capital of Portuguese Brazil, and served as the colony's capital until 1763. It became one of the greatest slave ports in the Americas, with millions of Africans brought here to work on sugar plantations, and their legacy shaped the city's culture. Today, it is the most African city in Brazil, and its music, religion, food and dance reflect that heritage.
The historic centre, the Pelourinho, is one of the finest colonial ensembles in Latin America, and UNESCO listed it in 1985. Pastel-coloured mansions and baroque churches line cobbled squares and steep lanes, with the gilded interior of the Church of São Francisco as a highlight. The city is divided by a cliff into an Upper City and a Lower City, linked by the Elevador Lacerda, an Art Deco lift from the 1930s.
Salvador is also a city of beaches, of a huge bay, of Carnival, and of candomblé. Drummers play in the squares, capoeira groups practise in the streets, and baianas in white dresses sell acarajé. It is a warm, vibrant, welcoming place, though visitors should take care in the historic centre at night.
Why visit
Salvador shows the African soul of Brazil, and is one of the most culturally rich cities in the country.
The Pelourinho has baroque churches and pastel colonial houses, with a lively atmosphere.
Candomblé, capoeira, drumming and dance.
Acarajé, moqueca, vatapá and other dishes cooked with palm oil and coconut milk.
City beaches, islands and the Bay of All Saints.
One of Brazil's largest, with electric trucks and street parties.
Main attractions
The main sights are in the Pelourinho and the Upper City, with beaches and forts along the coast.
The historic centre, with cobbled squares, pastel houses, museums and churches. The name refers to the pillory in the square where enslaved people were once whipped.
Tip Visit in daylight, and stay with the crowds in the evening.
A baroque church with an interior of carved wood covered in gold leaf, and a cloister decorated with blue and white Portuguese tiles.
Tip Photography is often restricted.
An Art Deco lift that carries passengers between the Upper City and Lower City, with views of the Bay of All Saints.
Tip The ride takes about 30 seconds and costs very little.
A handicrafts market in the Lower City, with souvenirs, Bahian art and food stalls.
Tip Bargain, and watch your belongings.
A 17th-century fort and lighthouse at the entrance to the bay, with a museum and one of the city's best sunset spots.
Tip Go at sunset.
A pilgrimage church known for the coloured ribbons tied to its railings for luck, the fitas do Bonfim.
Tip Take a ribbon home.
Things to do
Salvador is about culture, food and time by the sea.
The Afro-Brazilian martial art and dance is practised in squares and academies.
Tip Tip performers if you take photographs.
Deep-fried black-eyed pea fritters filled with shrimp and sauces, sold by women in traditional white dress.
Tip Ask for it with everything.
Percussion groups, samba de roda and pagode play in the Pelourinho and bars.
Tip Tuesday nights are busy in the Pelourinho.
Afro-Brazilian religious ceremonies are open to visitors in some terreiros, with respect.
Tip Go with a knowledgeable guide.
Day trips to Itaparica, Morro de São Paulo or the Bay of All Saints.
Tip Book in advance.
City beaches such as Porto da Barra and beaches north of the centre.
Tip Keep valuables safe.
Local food
Bahian cooking is the most African cuisine in Brazil, based on palm oil (dendê), coconut milk, shrimp, peppers and coriander.
Fritters of black-eyed peas fried in palm oil, filled with vatapá, caruru and shrimp. The baianas who sell them are recognised as cultural heritage.
Where to try it Street stalls in the Pelourinho and Rio Vermelho.
A fish or shrimp stew cooked in coconut milk and palm oil in a clay pot.
Where to try it Restaurants along the coast.
Rich, creamy sauces of bread, shrimp, peanuts, palm oil and okra, eaten with rice.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants.
Shrimp in a creamy cassava purée with coconut milk.
Where to try it Bahian restaurants.
Fresh juices from local fruit and a range of flavoured cachaças.
Where to try it Markets and bars.
Accommodation
Stay in the Pelourinho for atmosphere, or in Barra and Rio Vermelho for beaches and restaurants.
Transport
Salvador is about 1,200 km north-east of Rio.
The Upper and Lower Cities are linked by lifts and streets, and ride-hailing is best for beaches.
When to go
Salvador is tropical and warm year-round, with a rainy season from April to July.
Hot, humid and busy, with Carnival.
Warm, with the start of the rains.
Mild and rainy, with June festivals.
Warm, sunny and drier.
Worth planning around: Carnival week if you want quiet, and April to July for heavy rain.
Itinerary
The historic centre, then culture, then the sea.
Churches and squares.
Capoeira and Bahian cooking.
Beach and bay.
Travel tips
A few tips help you enjoy Salvador safely.
FAQ
Three days for the historic centre, food and beach.
Tourist areas are policed, but petty crime is common. Use apps at night, and keep valuables hidden.
September to March. April to July is rainy.
A fritter of black-eyed peas fried in palm oil and filled with shrimp and sauces.
They are different. Salvador is more African and cultural, and Rio has more scenery.
Some houses welcome visitors. Go with a guide and be respectful.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Salvador da Bahia, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Rio de Janeiro State, south-east Brazil, Brazil
Brazil's most famous city: Christ the Redeemer, Sugarloaf Mountain, Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, the Tijuca rainforest, Santa Teresa, samba and Carnival.
Don't miss Sunset from the top of Sugarloaf Mountain, as the city lights come on around the bay.
Explore Destination — Rio de JaneiroMaranhão, north-east Brazil, Brazil
A national park of about 1,500 square kilometres of dunes and seasonal lagoons on Brazil's north coast, explored from Barreirinhas and Santo Amaro by 4x4, boat and on foot.
Don't miss Wading through a warm, clear lagoon between dunes at sunset, with not another person in sight.
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A UNESCO-listed island 350 km off the north-east coast, with turquoise bays, marine life, snorkelling, diving and a low-key, high-price resort atmosphere.
Don't miss The Baía do Sancho at sunrise, reached down a cliff-side ladder to an empty crescent of sand.
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