Victoria, south-east Australia · Australia
Australia's cultural capital: laneways of street art and espresso bars, Victorian arcades, trams, sport and a food scene that many argue is the best in the country.
Photo: Dietmar Rabich · CC BY-SA 4.0
Melbourne grew rich on the gold rush of the 1850s, and became the largest and wealthiest city in Australia for a time, with grand Victorian buildings, arcades and boulevards. It served as the national capital from 1901 to 1927, and it has kept an air of elegance and confidence, with tree-lined streets, trams and a strong arts culture.
It is the city of laneways. Behind the grid of the CBD, narrow alleys such as Hosier Lane, Degraves Street and Centre Place are lined with street art, cafés, bars and tiny shops. Melbourne's coffee scene is famous, its restaurants range from Greek and Italian to Vietnamese and modern Australian, and its festivals, from the Australian Open tennis in January to the Melbourne Cup horse race in November, are big events.
The weather is famously changeable, and locals say you can experience four seasons in a day. But there is plenty to do in any weather, from galleries and markets to a game of Australian Rules football at the Melbourne Cricket Ground. It is a good base for day trips, particularly the Great Ocean Road.
Why visit
Melbourne is the best city in Australia for culture, coffee and eating.
A maze of alleys with murals, bars and cafés that change constantly.
A café culture that rivals Italy's, and superb Greek, Italian, Vietnamese and modern Australian food.
Flinders Street Station, the Royal Exhibition Building and grand arcades.
The MCG, the Australian Open, the Melbourne Cup and Grand Prix.
The Great Ocean Road, Yarra Valley wine and Phillip Island's penguins.
Main attractions
Most sights are in and around the central grid, connected by trams.
The heart of the city's street art scene, with constantly changing murals and stencils. Nearby laneways such as Degraves Street and Centre Place have cafés and bars.
Tip Explore in the morning, when it is quiet.
The city's civic centre, opposite Flinders Street Station, with the Ian Potter Centre for Australian art, the Australian Centre for the Moving Image and events.
Tip Walk across to the Yarra River.
A huge open-air market dating from 1878, with fresh produce, delicatessens, souvenirs and street food. The night market runs on summer Wednesdays.
Tip Check opening days, as it is closed on Mondays and Wednesdays.
A Victorian exhibition hall built in 1880, set in the Carlton Gardens, and inscribed by UNESCO in 2004 as the first building in Australia to get World Heritage listing.
Tip Combine with the Melbourne Museum next door.
The 'MCG', one of the world's great stadiums, with a capacity of about 100,000. It hosts Australian Rules football and cricket, and tours run on non-event days.
Tip Try to see an AFL game in season.
Australia's oldest and most visited art museum, with international and Australian collections.
Tip Free entry to the main collection.
Things to do
Melbourne rewards wandering, eating and picking up the local rhythm.
The city's trams are part of its character, and the free city circle tram runs past many sights.
Tip Use a myki card or contactless payment.
Sit in a tiny café and try a flat white or a long black.
Tip Try Degraves Street and Centre Place.
Australian Rules football is a passion, and a match at the MCG is an unforgettable experience.
Tip Book ahead for major games.
Guided walks explain the murals and the artists.
Tip Book a morning tour.
A day trip to wineries, cheese and chocolate producers, about an hour away.
Tip Go with a driver or a tour.
Little penguins come ashore at dusk at Phillip Island, about 1.5 hours away.
Tip Book tickets in advance.
Local food
Melbourne's dining is diverse, driven by immigration, with a cafe culture and excellent produce.
Melbourne's espresso culture is famous, with flat whites, long blacks and magics.
Where to try it Laneway cafés across the CBD and suburbs.
Elaborate breakfast and lunch dishes of eggs, avocado, mushrooms and more.
Where to try it Fitzroy, Collingwood and South Yarra.
Melbourne has one of the largest Greek populations outside Greece, and long-established Italian restaurants on Lygon Street.
Where to try it Lonsdale Street and Lygon Street.
Pho, banh mi and rice paper rolls in Richmond and Footscray.
Where to try it Victoria Street, Richmond.
Melbourne's Chinatown is the oldest in Australia.
Where to try it Little Bourke Street.
Pinot noir, chardonnay and local cheeses from the nearby valleys.
Where to try it Bars and markets.
Accommodation
Stay in the CBD or one of the inner suburbs, which are all connected by tram.
Transport
Melbourne is Australia's second international gateway.
Trams, trains and walking cover the city.
When to go
Melbourne has a changeable temperate climate, with hot summers, mild autumns and springs, and cool winters.
Mild, settled weather and the Comedy Festival.
Cold and grey, but cosy, with football season and fewer visitors.
Warmer, with the Melbourne Cup in early November.
Warm to hot, with the Australian Open in January. Some days are extremely hot.
Worth planning around: Very hot days in January and February, and the busiest event weekends if you want quiet.
Itinerary
Laneways and landmarks, markets and sport, and a day out of town.
Laneways and architecture.
Food and the MCG.
Wine or penguins.
Travel tips
A few tips help you enjoy Melbourne.
FAQ
Three days for the city, and a fourth for the Great Ocean Road or a wine valley.
Sydney has the harbour and beaches, and Melbourne has coffee, food and culture. Many visitors do both.
Changeable. Bring layers at any time of year.
It is possible on a long tour, about 12 hours. An overnight stay is much better.
Yes, with normal precautions, particularly at night in the CBD.
March to May and September to November.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Melbourne, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Victoria, south-west coast, Australia
A war memorial road built by returned soldiers, winding past Bells Beach, Lorne, Apollo Bay, the Otway rainforest and the Twelve Apostles, with wildlife, waterfalls and shipwreck history.
Don't miss The Twelve Apostles at sunset, as the limestone stacks glow gold in the surf.
Explore Destination — The Great Ocean RoadNew South Wales, east coast, Australia
Australia's largest city: the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, The Rocks, the Botanic Garden, Bondi and Manly beaches, cliff walks, ferries and a lively food and café scene.
Don't miss A ferry across the harbour at sunset, with the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge lit gold behind you.
Explore Destination — SydneyTasmania, island state south of the mainland, Australia
Australia's island state: Hobart and MONA, Cradle Mountain, Freycinet and Wineglass Bay, Port Arthur, Bruny Island and a wilderness of national parks, with a superb food scene.
Don't miss The view of Wineglass Bay from the lookout, a perfect white crescent of sand between pink granite peaks.
Explore Destination — TasmaniaRead next
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