Salta and Jujuy, north-west Argentina · Argentina
A high, dry land of rainbow-coloured canyons, adobe villages, Andean traditions, salt flats and high-altitude vineyards, unlike the rest of Argentina.
Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC BY-SA 4.0
Argentina's north-west is a different country in feel from Buenos Aires or Patagonia. The region was part of the Inca Empire, and later a major route of Spanish colonial trade to the silver mines of Potosí, and its culture is strongly Andean, with Quechua and Aymara influences in language, food, music and clothing. Landscapes range from lush valleys and cloud forest to high desert and salt flats, and much of it lies above 2,000 metres.
Salta, the regional capital, is an elegant colonial city known as Salta la Linda, Salta the Beautiful, with a pink cathedral, a lively main square and excellent folk music venues, or peñas. From here, roads lead in two directions. South, the Calchaquí Valleys and Cafayate offer red canyons, adobe villages and some of the world's highest vineyards. North, in Jujuy Province, the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a UNESCO-listed valley, has villages such as Purmamarca and Tilcara, layered hills of red, pink and green, and pre-Inca ruins.
The region is best visited by road, with a hire car or a driver, since the sights are spread out and public transport is limited. Altitude is a factor, and the sun is strong. It is one of Argentina's most rewarding regions, with fewer visitors than Patagonia and a warm hospitality.
Why visit
The north-west offers landscapes and culture found nowhere else in Argentina.
Hills striped in red, orange, green and purple, at Purmamarca, Cafayate and elsewhere.
Weaving, folk music, markets and fiestas rooted in pre-Columbian tradition.
Torrontés and Malbec from vineyards in Cafayate at 1,700 metres.
Humitas, tamales, locro and llama, among Argentina's best regional cooking.
Winding mountain passes, salt flats and desert landscapes.
Main attractions
Split your time between Salta, the southern valleys and the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
A colonial city with a pink cathedral, the Cabildo, lively squares and museums, including the Museum of High Altitude Archaeology. The cable car up Cerro San Bernardo gives a view of the valley.
Tip Spend an evening in a peña with live folk music.
A dramatic gorge of red rock, with formations such as the Devil's Throat and the Amphitheatre, on the road to Cafayate, a wine town in the valleys, known for Torrontés.
Tip Stop at viewpoints, and drive in the afternoon light.
A small adobe village at the foot of a striped hill, with a craft market and a 3-km circuit path, the Paseo de los Colorados.
Tip Go at sunrise or sunset for the best colours.
A long valley inscribed by UNESCO in 2003, following an ancient route from the Andes to the plains, with villages such as Tilcara, Uquía and Humahuaca, and pre-Inca fortresses.
Tip Allow a full day or two.
A vast white salt flat at about 3,450 metres, reached by the high Cuesta de Lipán road, where salt is still harvested by hand.
Tip Bring sunglasses and sun protection.
A famous railway that climbs from Salta to the La Polvorilla viaduct, at over 4,000 metres. Services have been suspended at times, so check whether it is running.
Tip Check schedules and book ahead.
Things to do
Driving, walking and eating make up most of the days.
Stop at rock formations and viewpoints on the road to Cafayate.
Tip Go in the morning or late afternoon.
Visit bodegas, and try the aromatic white wine.
Tip Book a tour with a driver.
Follow the Paseo de los Colorados at the base of the hill.
Tip Go early.
A restored pre-Inca fortress above the village.
Tip Bring water and a hat.
Live folk music, empanadas and wine in a small venue.
Tip Go late.
The traditional remedy for altitude sickness.
Tip Drink water and rest.
Local food
The north-west's cuisine is Andean, with corn, potatoes, quinoa and spicy stews.
Small, juicy empanadas with beef, onion and spices, baked in clay ovens.
Where to try it Empanada shops in Salta.
Sweet or savoury corn dishes, wrapped in husks and steamed.
Where to try it Markets.
A thick stew of corn, beans and meat, eaten on national holidays.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants.
Lean Andean meats, grilled or stewed.
Where to try it Restaurants in Jujuy.
Aromatic white wine from Cafayate.
Where to try it Bodegas.
Salads and stews.
Where to try it Restaurants.
Accommodation
Stay in Salta, and in small guesthouses in Cafayate and Purmamarca.
Transport
Salta is about 1,500 km north-west of Buenos Aires, and reached by air.
A car or driver is the best way to explore, and tours cover the main sights.
When to go
The north-west has a dry winter and a rainy summer, with heavy afternoon storms from December to March. Altitude makes nights cold.
Dry, warm days, and clear light.
Dry and sunny, with cold nights.
Warming, with clear skies.
Hot and wet, with afternoon storms and landslides.
Worth planning around: January and February, when rain can close roads.
Itinerary
Salta, the southern valleys and the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
Colonial city.
Canyons and wine.
The scenic road.
Colour and salt.
The Quebrada.
Travel tips
The altitude and distances need some planning.
FAQ
Five to six days, including Salta, Cafayate and the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
April to October.
It can be, particularly at Salinas Grandes and the high passes. Go slowly, drink water and rest.
It is the best way to explore, though tours are available.
Services have been suspended at times. Check the current status before planning.
They are complementary. Salta has the city and wine, and Jujuy has the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Salta and Jujuy, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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