Corrientes, north-east Argentina · Argentina
A vast, quiet wetland of floating islands and lagoons, alive with caimans, capybaras and birds, where jaguars are being brought back to the wild.
Photo: Joshua Stone · CC BY-SA 3.0
The Esteros del Iberá is one of the largest freshwater wetlands in South America, an area of about 13,000 square kilometres of lagoons, marshes and floating islands, fed by rainfall rather than rivers, in the province of Corrientes. Its shallow, still waters are covered with aquatic plants, and much of the surface is made up of camalotes, floating mats of vegetation. It is home to more than 350 species of bird, and to caimans, capybaras, marsh deer, howler monkeys and many others.
For decades, poaching and cattle ranching reduced the wildlife, but a large conservation project, begun by the American philanthropist Douglas Tompkins and continued by his foundation and the Argentine government, has bought and donated land, creating Iberá National Park in 2018. The project has reintroduced species that had disappeared from the area, including giant anteaters, pampas deer, giant otters and, in recent years, jaguars, and it is one of the most ambitious rewilding projects in South America.
Iberá is remote and quiet. The main base is the small village of Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, on the edge of a large lagoon, where lodges and guesthouses offer boat trips, walks, horseback rides and night safaris. It is not an easy place to reach, and it is not for those who want a big-name attraction, but it is a peaceful and rewarding place for wildlife lovers.
Why visit
Iberá offers close encounters with wetland wildlife in a quiet, uncrowded setting, and a chance to support conservation.
Caimans, capybaras, marsh deer, howler monkeys and hundreds of bird species.
Small motorless or low-noise boats drift through lagoons and among floating islands.
A project bringing back anteaters, otters, deer and even jaguars.
Dark skies and a slow pace.
Horse riding and estancia hospitality.
Main attractions
Most experiences are guided, from Colonia Carlos Pellegrini and nearby lodges.
A boat trip on the large lagoon beside Carlos Pellegrini, with a guide who spots caimans, capybaras, snail kites and marsh deer among the floating islands.
Tip Go at dawn or late afternoon.
Yacaré caimans bask on banks and capybaras graze in groups, often at close range, in a landscape where wildlife has little fear of people.
Tip Keep a safe distance.
More than 350 species, including jabiru storks, herons, spoonbills, ducks, kingfishers and the rare strange-tailed tyrant.
Tip Bring binoculars.
A viewpoint over the lagoon, near the village, for sunset.
Tip A short walk.
Visitors can see where jaguars, giant otters and other species are prepared for release, though not the animals themselves in some cases.
Tip Ask a guide about the project.
The vast scale of the wetland is best seen from above, on a small-plane flight.
Tip Book at your lodge.
Things to do
Activities are quiet, guided and wildlife-focused.
Drift among floating islands, spotting wildlife.
Tip Go at sunrise.
See caimans, owls and nocturnal mammals by torchlight.
Tip Bring a warm layer.
Gaucho-led rides through the marsh edge.
Tip Book in advance.
Trails through palm savannah and wetland edges.
Tip Bring repellent.
Paddle quietly among wildlife.
Tip Use a guide.
Clear, dark skies.
Tip Bring a jacket.
Local food
Food in Iberá is simple and regional, with river fish, beef and local sweets.
River fish, grilled or in stews.
Where to try it Lodges and restaurants.
Cheesy cassava bread rolls.
Where to try it Bakeries.
Grilled beef, the traditional meal.
Where to try it Lodges.
Corn-based dishes of the Guaraní tradition.
Where to try it Local restaurants.
Cold mate, a common drink.
Where to try it Everywhere.
Accommodation
Stay in Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, in a lodge or guesthouse.
Transport
Iberá is remote, and reached by road, with some unpaved sections.
Everything is guided and close to Carlos Pellegrini.
When to go
Iberá has a humid subtropical climate, with hot, rainy summers and mild winters. Winter is cooler and drier, with fewer insects.
Hot, humid and rainy, with mosquitoes.
Pleasant temperatures, good wildlife.
Mild days, cool nights and fewer insects.
Warm, with birds in breeding plumage.
Worth planning around: January and February for heat and insects.
Itinerary
Boats, walks and a night safari.
Settle in.
Wildlife and the countryside.
A last look.
Travel tips
A few tips make the visit more comfortable.
FAQ
Three days is ideal.
The rewilding project has released jaguars, but sightings are rare. Caimans, capybaras and birds are much easier.
March to November.
By road from Corrientes or Posadas, about 4 to 5 hours, or by lodge transfer.
Similar, though quieter and less visited. The Pantanal has more large mammals.
Yes, with guides and normal precautions.
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