Buenos Aires, on the Río de la Plata · Argentina
The Paris of South America: grand boulevards, sunlit cafés, tango, bookshops, steakhouses and neighbourhoods each with a distinct personality, staying up until dawn.
Photo: Dpalma01 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Buenos Aires was founded in 1536 and refounded in 1580 on the shore of the wide Río de la Plata, and it grew rich in the late 19th and early 20th centuries on the export of beef and grain. Immigration from Italy, Spain and elsewhere shaped its population, and its architecture, with wide boulevards, French-style mansions and Italian-inspired cafés, earned it the name Paris of South America. It remains one of the world's great cultural cities.
The city is a patchwork of barrios, each with its own character: San Telmo, with its cobbled streets and antique markets; La Boca, with its brightly painted houses; Recoleta, with elegant mansions and its famous cemetery; Palermo, a large area of parks, cafés, boutiques and nightlife; and Puerto Madero, a redeveloped dock area of restaurants and modern towers. It is a walkable city, and one of the best in the world for wandering.
Tango is the soul of the city, but so are football, cafés, bookshops, and the parrilla, or steakhouse. Portenos, as the residents are called, live late, eat late and talk with passion, and a visit rewards those who adopt their rhythm. It has economic troubles and periodic strikes, but its energy is unmatched.
Why visit
Buenos Aires is the cultural and culinary capital of South America, and a city of endless variety.
Dance halls, shows, street performers and a thriving live music scene.
Steak, empanadas, pasta, dulce de leche and Malbec, in parrillas and cafés.
Belle Époque mansions, grand plazas and colourful neighbourhoods.
One of the world's great bookshop cultures, with historic cafés to match.
Bars, clubs and milongas open until dawn.
Main attractions
The city is best explored by neighbourhood, with time for cafés in between.
The historic heart of the city, with the pink Casa Rosada, the Cabildo and the Metropolitan Cathedral. The Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo still march here on Thursday afternoons.
Tip Visit in the morning, and see the Thursday march.
A city of the dead, with ornate mausoleums lining narrow streets, and the family tomb of Eva Perón. It is one of the most atmospheric cemeteries in the world.
Tip Go in the morning, and look for the cats.
The oldest neighbourhood, with cobbled streets, colonial houses, tango bars and a large market of antiques and crafts on Sundays.
Tip Go early on a Sunday, and watch your bag.
A working-class port district with brightly painted houses, tango dancers and the football stadium La Bombonera. The tourist street, Caminito, is safe by day, but stay within it.
Tip Take a taxi to and from, and visit by day.
One of the world's great opera houses, opened in 1908, with superb acoustics and a lavish interior. Tours and performances are available.
Tip Book a tour, or see a show.
A former 1919 theatre turned into a spectacular bookshop, with balconies, a painted ceiling and a café on the stage.
Tip Go on a weekday morning.
The redeveloped docks, with restaurants, the Puente de la Mujer, a pedestrian bridge by Santiago Calatrava, and the Costanera Sur ecological reserve.
Tip Walk or cycle in the evening.
Things to do
Buenos Aires is about strolling, eating and staying up late.
A dance hall where locals dance tango. Many offer a beginner class first.
Tip Try a class first, and watch the etiquette.
Order a mixed grill, provoleta and salad, and share.
Tip Book a table for 9 or 10pm.
Boca Juniors and River Plate matches are legendary.
Tip Book through a reputable tour.
Historic cafés such as Café Tortoni, opened in 1858, offer coffee, medialunas and atmosphere.
Tip Go off-peak to avoid the queue.
Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood are full of boutiques, cafés and bars.
Tip Go on a weekend.
A day on a ranch near the city, with a barbecue, horse riding and folklore.
Tip Book in advance.
Local food
Buenos Aires eats late and well, with beef at the centre, along with Italian-inspired pasta and pizza.
Bife de chorizo, ojo de bife and vacío, grilled on wood and charcoal.
Where to try it Parrillas in Palermo and San Telmo.
Baked or fried pastries with beef, cheese or vegetables.
Where to try it Bakeries and casual restaurants.
Sweet croissants with a cortado, the classic breakfast.
Where to try it Cafés everywhere.
Thick pizzas and homemade pasta, from Italian immigrants.
Where to try it Traditional pizzerias.
Milk caramel in pastries, alfajores, ice cream and flan.
Where to try it Ice-cream shops (heladerías).
The country's wines, in bars and restaurants.
Where to try it Wine bars in Palermo.
Accommodation
Choose Palermo for nightlife, Recoleta for elegance and San Telmo for atmosphere.
Transport
Buenos Aires is Argentina's main international gateway.
Use the subte and taxis, and walk in the neighbourhoods.
When to go
Buenos Aires has a humid subtropical climate, with hot, sticky summers and mild, damp winters.
Warm and sunny, with jacaranda blossom.
Hot and humid, and many locals leave town.
Warm, pleasant and clear.
Cool and damp, but good for culture.
Worth planning around: January and February for the heat.
Itinerary
The historic centre, the barrios, culture and a day out.
Plazas and palaces.
Elegance and green.
Colour and water.
An estancia or the delta.
Travel tips
A few tips help you enjoy the city safely.
FAQ
Three or four days for the highlights, and more for day trips.
Generally yes, but petty theft is common. Keep valuables hidden and use taxi apps.
September to November and March to May.
It is a highlight, but choose between a show and a milonga, depending on whether you want a spectacle or an authentic evening.
Prices are volatile, and it can be cheaper or dearer than expected. Food and wine are good value.
A day or two lets you see the centre, Recoleta and San Telmo.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Buenos Aires, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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The Argentine side of Iguazú Falls holds most of the 275 cascades, seen from a network of circuits and walkways in a subtropical rainforest national park, with the Devil's Throat as its finale.
Don't miss The walkway over the lip of the Devil's Throat, where the roar is deafening and mist surrounds you.
Explore Destination — Iguazú Falls (Argentine side)Mendoza, Cuyo, central Andes, Argentina
Argentina's premier wine region: Luján de Cuyo, Maipú and the Uco Valley, plus the elegant city of Mendoza, the Andean road to Aconcagua and outdoor adventures.
Don't miss A long lunch with a Malbec in hand on a winery terrace, with the snowy Andes on the horizon.
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The gateway to Los Glaciares National Park, with the spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier, boat trips to the Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers, ice trekking and Patagonian estancias.
Don't miss Standing on the walkways as a house-sized block of ice breaks away and thunders into the lake.
Explore Destination — El Calafate and the Perito Moreno GlacierRead next
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