The Hole in the Rock, a natural arch through Motukokako Island in the Bay of Islands

North Island (Northland) · New Zealand

Bay of Islands

A beautiful, history-laden stretch of coast where New Zealand's founding document was signed, 144 islands scatter across sheltered water, and sailing is simply the way of life.

  • Best time Spring through autumn, with a warm, mild climate for most of the year
  • Stay 3 days
  • Good for New Zealand history, sailing and boat cruises, a slower coastal pace

Photo: Pseudopanax at English Wikipedia · Public domain

Welcome to Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands is where modern New Zealand began — the Treaty of Waitangi, the country's founding document, was signed here in 1840 on the lawn in front of the Treaty House, and the bay's early role as a whaling and trading port shaped the nation long before Auckland or Wellington existed.

That history sits alongside 144 islands scattered across sheltered, island-studded water, drawing sailors, game fishers and cruise passengers to a coastline that has quietly functioned as New Zealand's boating playground for well over a century.

It's a slower, warmer corner of the country than the South Island's mountain scenery — the appeal here is history, water and a relaxed subtropical pace rather than dramatic landscapes.

  • Coast & Beaches
  • Historic Site
  • Sailing
  • Island

Why visit

Why visit Bay of Islands?

The Bay of Islands' case rests on a rare combination of national history and a beautiful, boat-friendly coastline.

  • Waitangi is New Zealand's most significant historic site

    The country's founding treaty between the British Crown and Maori chiefs was signed on these grounds in 1840.

  • The Hole in the Rock is one of the North Island's most photographed sights

    A natural arch worn clean through solid rock, reachable by scenic cruise from Paihia or Russell.

  • Russell is New Zealand's first capital and a beautifully preserved colonial township

    Once a rough whaling port nicknamed the 'hellhole of the Pacific,' now a quiet, historic seaside village.

  • The sailing culture is woven into daily life here, not a tourist add-on

    The bay has hosted serious yachting and game fishing for well over a century.

  • It's a warmer, more relaxed pace than much of the rest of the country

    Northland's subtropical climate makes the Bay of Islands pleasant to visit across most of the year.

Main attractions

Top things to see in Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands' essential sights span its founding history, its historic townships, and its scattered islands offshore.

  1. The Treaty House at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds

    Waitangi Treaty Grounds

    The genuine birthplace of modern New Zealand, where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840, with the Treaty House, a carved meeting house and the world's largest ceremonial war canoe on site.

    Tip A guided tour adds far more historical context than walking the grounds alone.

  2. The historic waterfront township of Russell in the Bay of Islands

    Russell

    New Zealand's first capital and a rowdy 19th-century whaling port, now a beautifully preserved, quiet township reached by a short ferry from Paihia.

    Tip Climb Maiki (Flagstaff) Hill for an excellent view over the whole bay.

  3. The Hole in the Rock, a natural arch through Motukokako Island

    The Hole in the Rock

    A striking natural arch worn through Motukokako Island by wind and sea, with calm-weather cruises passing directly through it.

    Tip Passage through the hole depends on swell conditions — it isn't guaranteed on every cruise.

  4. The historic Stone Store in Kerikeri, New Zealand's oldest stone building

    Kerikeri's Stone Store and Kemp House

    New Zealand's oldest stone building and oldest wooden building sit side by side here, remnants of one of the country's earliest mission stations.

    Tip The Kerikeri Basin walk links the historic buildings to a waterfall a short stroll away.

  5. The lighthouse and former keeper's house at Cape Brett

    Cape Brett Track and Lighthouse

    A demanding full-day or overnight track to a working lighthouse at the bay's outermost point, with dramatic coastal views throughout.

    Tip Most visitors see the cape by boat instead — the track is a serious hike, not a casual walk.

  6. The waterfront at Paihia, the main town of the Bay of Islands

    Paihia

    The bay's genuine hub town, its waterfront lined with cruise operators, cafés and the short ferry crossing to Russell.

    Tip Most cruises and activities depart directly from the Paihia wharf.

  7. Islands scattered across the Bay of Islands, viewed from Urupukapuka Island

    The bay's 144 islands

    A vast, sheltered scattering of islands and inlets, with Urupukapuka the largest, offering beaches and walking tracks reached only by boat.

    Tip A full-day cruise covers far more of the bay than a short harbour trip.

Things to do

Best things to do in Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands centres on the water, with history-rich towns to explore between cruises.

  1. A cruise boat approaching the Hole in the Rock

    Cruise to the Hole in the Rock

    The essential Bay of Islands excursion, a half-day cruise out to Cape Brett and, conditions allowing, straight through the rock arch.

    Tip Sit outside on the upper deck for the best photos as the boat passes through.

  2. Sailboats on the water in the Bay of Islands

    Sail the Bay of Islands

    A serious sailing destination for well over a century, with day charters and multi-day yacht trips widely available from Paihia and Opua.

    Tip A skippered half-day sail needs no prior sailing experience.

  3. Swim or cruise with dolphins

    Common dolphins are frequent visitors to the bay, with dedicated dolphin-watching and swim tours running from Paihia.

    Tip Swimming is weather- and dolphin-behaviour-dependent, so treat it as a bonus rather than a guarantee.

  4. The Cape Brett lighthouse at the end of the Cape Brett Track

    Walk the Cape Brett Track

    A serious 16km one-way tramp to the lighthouse, usually done as an overnight trip with a stay in the DOC hut.

    Tip This is a strenuous full-day hike each way — fit trampers only.

  5. Visitors at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds

    Explore the Waitangi Treaty Grounds

    An essential few hours spent on the site where New Zealand's founding document was signed, including a Maori cultural performance.

    Tip Time your visit around one of the scheduled cultural performances for the fullest experience.

  6. Wandering the historic waterfront of Russell

    Wander historic Russell

    An easy, pleasant afternoon spent among New Zealand's oldest church, its first capital's colonial buildings, and a quiet waterfront.

    Tip The passenger ferry from Paihia runs regularly throughout the day.

Local food

What to eat in Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands' food leans on fresh local seafood, alongside the standard New Zealand classics found countrywide.

  • A plate of New Zealand green-lipped mussels

    Green-lipped mussels

    A distinctive native species, farmed in sheltered northern waters and served simply steamed at waterfront restaurants.

    Where to try it Waterfront restaurants in Paihia and Russell.

  • A classic New Zealand fish and chips takeaway

    Fish and chips

    Best eaten on the Paihia waterfront, fresh off the day's catch and eaten looking out over the bay.

    Where to try it Waterfront takeaways in Paihia and Russell.

  • A pavlova dessert topped with cream and fresh fruit

    Pavlova

    A beloved national dessert, its crisp meringue shell and soft centre a fixture on café menus across the bay.

    Where to try it Cafés in Paihia and Kerikeri.

  • Kumara

    An important Maori and New Zealand staple, this native sweet potato appears roasted, mashed or as chips on menus throughout Northland.

    Where to try it Restaurants throughout Paihia, Russell and Kerikeri.

  • Jars of New Zealand manuka honey

    Manuka honey

    Northland's warm climate makes it prime manuka country, and local honey is sold direct from producers around Kerikeri.

    Where to try it Farm shops and gift stores around Kerikeri.

  • A flat white coffee, a New Zealand café staple

    Flat white

    Essential before a day out on the water, and Paihia's waterfront cafés keep a steady, reliable standard.

    Where to try it Cafés along the Paihia waterfront.

Accommodation

Where to stay in Bay of Islands

Paihia is the most convenient base, with Russell offering a quieter, more historic alternative just a ferry ride away.

  • Paihia

    The bay's genuine hub, with most tour operators and restaurants within walking distance of the waterfront.

    Best for: Cruise departures and the widest choice of accommodation

  • Russell

    Charming and peaceful, a short ferry ride from Paihia's activity and restaurant scene.

    Best for: A quieter, more historic stay

  • Kerikeri

    A pleasant small town a short drive inland, handy for the historic Stone Store precinct.

    Best for: A more local, less touristy base

What a night costs

Budget motel
NZ$110–160 per night
Mid-range hotel
NZ$190–300 per night
Hole in the Rock cruise
About NZ$100–140
Waitangi Treaty Grounds entry
About NZ$65

Transport

Getting to and around Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands sits a comfortable drive north of Auckland, with a small local airport for quicker access.

Getting there

  • Rental car from Auckland

    About 3h15 drive from Auckland, straightforward on the main state highway north.

    A worthwhile stop is Whangarei's Town Basin, roughly the halfway point.

  • Domestic flights

    Short flights connect Auckland to the Bay of Islands Airport at Kerikeri.

    A quick option if you'd rather skip the drive.

  • Bus

    InterCity coaches run from Auckland to Paihia.

    A workable, if slower, budget option for visitors without a car.

Getting around

Paihia and Russell are linked by a short, frequent passenger ferry, while a car helps reach Kerikeri and the wider region.

  • Paihia–Russell passenger ferry

    A quick, frequent crossing running throughout the day.

    Far simpler than driving around the harbour to reach Russell.

  • Rental car

    Useful for reaching Kerikeri and Northland's wider sights independently.

    Most key towns sit within a 30-minute drive of each other.

  • Cruises and organised tours

    Widely available from Paihia for the Hole in the Rock, dolphin watching and Cape Brett.

    The standard way most visitors see the bay's outer islands.

When to go

Best time to visit Bay of Islands

Northland's subtropical climate keeps the Bay of Islands pleasant across a wider window than much of the rest of the country.

  • Summer (December–February)

    Best time

    Warm, busy and the peak season for sailing and cruises.

  • Autumn (March–May)

    Best time

    Settled and warm, with noticeably thinner crowds than summer.

  • Winter (June–August)

    Good

    Mild by New Zealand standards, though wetter, with quieter towns and lower prices.

  • Spring (September–November)

    Good

    Increasingly warm and pleasant, ahead of the summer peak.

Worth planning around: Nothing strongly — Northland's climate stays mild year-round, though summer weekends and school holidays bring the biggest crowds.

Itinerary

Three days in the Bay of Islands

Built around Waitangi's history, a cruise to the Hole in the Rock, and Russell's quieter pace.

  1. Day1

    Waitangi and Paihia

    The bay's founding history.

    • Morning The Waitangi Treaty Grounds, including a guided tour.
    • Afternoon Explore Paihia's waterfront.
    • Evening Dinner overlooking the bay.
  2. Day2

    Out on the water

    The essential Hole in the Rock cruise.

    • Morning A cruise out to Cape Brett and the Hole in the Rock.
    • Afternoon Dolphin watching, weather permitting.
    • Evening Return to Paihia.
  3. Day3

    Russell and Kerikeri

    Historic townships at a slower pace.

    • Morning Ferry to Russell and a walk up Maiki Hill.
    • Afternoon Drive to Kerikeri for the Stone Store and Kemp House.
    • Evening A relaxed dinner back in Paihia.

Travel tips

Bay of Islands travel tips

Practical notes on booking, ferries and timing that make a real difference to a Bay of Islands trip.

  • Book Hole in the Rock cruises ahead in summer — the best morning departures fill up.
  • Check whether your cruise actually passes through the arch — it's subject to swell conditions.
  • Catch the passenger ferry rather than driving to Russell — it's quicker and removes parking hassle.
  • Bring sun protection even on overcast days — Northland's subtropical sun is stronger than further south.
  • Book Cape Brett Hut well ahead if attempting the full track — it's popular in summer.
  • Combine the Bay of Islands with Auckland on a northern road trip rather than treating it as an isolated stop.

FAQ

Bay of Islands: frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in the Bay of Islands?

Three days covers Waitangi, a Hole in the Rock cruise and Russell comfortably. A day trip from Auckland is possible but rushed.

Is the Bay of Islands worth visiting for history?

Yes — Waitangi is New Zealand's single most significant historic site, and Russell was the country's first capital.

Does the cruise always go through the Hole in the Rock?

Not guaranteed — passage depends on swell and tide conditions on the day, though most cruises attempt it.

Is Russell or Paihia the better base?

Paihia is more convenient for cruises and restaurants; Russell offers a quieter, more historic stay a short ferry ride away.

Can you swim with dolphins in the Bay of Islands?

Yes, on dedicated tours, though it's dependent on finding dolphins and their behaviour on the day — treat it as a possibility, not a guarantee.

Do you need a car in the Bay of Islands?

It helps for reaching Kerikeri and wider Northland, though Paihia and Russell themselves are easily covered on foot and by ferry.

Read next

Related travel articles

Where to go

Beyond the Big Names: Places Worth the Detour

The most visited place in a country is rarely its best, and it is almost never its best value. This is a method for finding the destinations that do not make the postcards — and a set of examples from five of the 50 countries on this site.

Practical

Packing by Season and Trip Type

Most packing advice is a list of things. This is the opposite: the small number of decisions that determine whether your luggage helps or hinders, organised by the kind of trip you are actually taking.

Advertisement