Preah Vihear and Siem Reap Provinces · Cambodia
Jungle temples and a lost capital, far from the Angkor crowds.
Photo: PsamatheM · CC BY-SA 4.0
Beyond the Angkor park lie some of the most atmospheric Khmer temples. Beng Mealea, about 65 kilometres east of Siem Reap, is a vast 12th-century temple left largely as found, with towers and galleries collapsed under trees and moss. Wooden walkways help you explore, and it feels like the jungle temples of old photographs.
Koh Ker, a further 90 minutes north, was briefly the capital of the Khmer Empire in the 10th century. Dozens of temples are scattered through the forest, including Prasat Thom and its great seven-tier pyramid, which visitors can climb for views over the treetops. Because of its remoteness, Koh Ker is rarely crowded.
Most visitors do both in a long day trip with a driver. Roads are generally good, though the Koh Ker area still has marked mine clearance zones, so stay on paths. It is a fine way to see temples without the crowds.
Why visit
These sites are for travellers who want the Indiana Jones feel.
Trees growing from stones.
A dramatic climb.
Peaceful.
Dozens of temples.
Off the main circuit.
Main attractions
Two main sites with side stops.
A collapsed temple in the jungle.
Tip Take the walkways.
A seven-tier temple at Koh Ker.
Tip Climb carefully.
A small temple with carved lintels.
Tip Short stop.
A black temple.
Tip Quiet spot.
A temple with tree roots.
Tip Photogenic.
A smaller site on the way.
Tip Optional.
Things to do
Go with a driver.
Climb over fallen stones.
Tip Wear sturdy shoes.
Views over the forest.
Tip Check if open.
Among the ruins.
Tip Stay on paths.
Pack lunch.
Tip Pack out rubbish.
Learn the history.
Tip Local guides know the sites.
Soft light.
Tip Start early.
Local food
Bring a picnic or eat at local stalls.
Coconut curry.
Where to try it Siem Reap.
Baguette sandwich.
Where to try it Stalls.
Quick meals.
Where to try it Roadside.
Pineapple and mango.
Where to try it Stalls.
Cold.
Where to try it Roadside.
Accommodation
Most stay in Siem Reap.
Transport
Hire a driver from Siem Reap.
You need a vehicle.
When to go
Cool, dry months are best.
Cool and dry.
Hot.
Green.
Fresh.
Worth planning around: April and May.
Itinerary
A long day trip.
Jungle and pyramid
Travel tips
Tips.
FAQ
A full day.
Stay on paths because of mines.
No.
Check status.
Yes.
November to February.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Koh Ker and Beng Mealea, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Siem Reap Province, north-west Cambodia, Cambodia
A UNESCO World Heritage Site covering over 400 square kilometres, with Angkor Wat, the faces of the Bayon, the jungle-wrapped Ta Prohm and dozens of other temples.
Don't miss Watching the towers of Angkor Wat emerge from the dark at sunrise.
Explore Destination — Angkor Archaeological ParkSiem Reap Province, Cambodia
A day trip north of Angkor: the delicate Banteay Srei, the River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean, and the sacred Kulen Mountain with waterfalls.
Don't miss Examining carvings so fine they look like lace, at the "citadel of women".
Explore Destination — Banteay Srei and Kulen MountainSiem Reap Province, Cambodia
A relaxed city with Pub Street, the Old Market, Phare circus, Royal Gardens and trips to the Tonle Sap floating villages.
Don't miss Eating fish amok in the old market after a day among temples.
Explore Destination — Siem Reap and Tonle SapRead next
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