Siem Reap Province · Cambodia
A pink sandstone jewel of Khmer carving, and the sacred mountain where Angkor began.
Photo: Olaf Tausch · CC BY 3.0
Banteay Srei, about 25 kilometres north of Angkor Wat, is a small 10th-century Hindu temple made of rose-coloured sandstone, covered in intricate carvings that are among the finest in Khmer art. Its name means "citadel of women", perhaps for the delicate work. It is easily reached by tuk-tuk in under an hour.
Further north, the Kulen Mountain is a sacred sandstone plateau where Khmer king Jayavarman II proclaimed independence in 802. The Kbal Spean site, the "River of a Thousand Lingas", has carvings of Hindu symbols on the riverbed, reached by a forest walk. At the top of Kulen, a giant reclining Buddha, a waterfall and swimming pools draw local families.
Banteay Srei and Kbal Spean combine neatly into a half-day, while Kulen needs a full day. These are included on a Angkor pass, except Kulen which has its own fee. The sites are less crowded, and a nice change from the main temples.
Why visit
These sites show different sides of Khmer history and nature.
The finest carvings.
Carvings in a river.
A sacred plateau.
Cooling swims.
An important story.
Main attractions
Banteay Srei and Kulen are both north of the main temples.
Pink sandstone temple.
Tip Arrive early.
River of a Thousand Lingas.
Tip A 30-minute uphill walk.
A popular swimming spot.
Tip Avoid weekends.
A large Buddha on the hill.
Tip Dress modestly.
Story of mine clearance.
Tip Allow an hour.
Carvings on the stones.
Tip Look carefully.
Things to do
Combine culture and nature.
Bring a guide.
Tip Early light helps.
Forest hike.
Tip Wear shoes.
Cool.
Tip Dry season water is lower.
Informative.
Tip Donations welcome.
At Kulen.
Tip Pack out rubbish.
At Banteay Srei.
Tip Start early.
Local food
Local stalls at the sites.
Noodles.
Where to try it Morning stalls.
Roadside.
Where to try it Stalls.
Coconut curry.
Where to try it Siem Reap.
Mango and rambutan.
Where to try it Stalls.
Cold.
Where to try it Roadside.
Accommodation
Stay in Siem Reap.
Transport
Reach by tuk-tuk or car from Siem Reap.
You need a vehicle.
When to go
Cool, dry months are best.
Cool and dry.
Hot.
Waterfalls full.
Fresh.
Worth planning around: April and May.
Itinerary
Carvings and a mountain.
Carvings
Travel tips
Tips.
FAQ
One day.
Banteay Srei and Kbal Spean are.
Yes.
Less than Angkor.
November to February.
Stay on paths.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Banteay Srei and Kulen Mountain, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Siem Reap Province, north-west Cambodia, Cambodia
A UNESCO World Heritage Site covering over 400 square kilometres, with Angkor Wat, the faces of the Bayon, the jungle-wrapped Ta Prohm and dozens of other temples.
Don't miss Watching the towers of Angkor Wat emerge from the dark at sunrise.
Explore Destination — Angkor Archaeological ParkPreah Vihear and Siem Reap Provinces, Cambodia
Two remote Khmer sites: Beng Mealea, a half-collapsed temple swallowed by the jungle, and Koh Ker, a 10th-century capital with a dramatic pyramid.
Don't miss Climbing a seven-tier pyramid in the forest with almost no one else around.
Explore Destination — Koh Ker and Beng MealeaSiem Reap Province, Cambodia
A relaxed city with Pub Street, the Old Market, Phare circus, Royal Gardens and trips to the Tonle Sap floating villages.
Don't miss Eating fish amok in the old market after a day among temples.
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