Minas Gerais, south-east Brazil · Brazil
A steep, cobbled gold-rush town of gilded baroque churches, hilltop views and the masterpieces of Aleijadinho, in the highlands of Minas Gerais.
Photo: Alvesgaspar · CC BY-SA 3.0
Ouro Preto, or Black Gold, was founded around 1698 after gold was discovered in the hills of what would become Minas Gerais, which means General Mines. Within a few decades it became the greatest gold-mining town in the Americas, and one of the largest cities on the continent, and it built churches, mansions and fountains with the wealth from the mines. It was known as Vila Rica, and it later became the state capital until 1897. UNESCO listed it in 1980, one of the first places in Brazil to be recognised.
The town is spread across steep hills, and its cobbled streets climb and drop between whitewashed houses with colourful doors and windows. More than a dozen baroque churches are decorated with carved wood and gold leaf. Many are associated with the sculptor and architect Aleijadinho, Antônio Francisco Lisboa, who created some of the finest baroque works in the Americas despite a disabling illness, and with the painter Manuel da Costa Ataíde.
It is also the site of the Inconfidência Mineira, a 1789 plot to free Brazil from Portuguese rule, whose martyr, Tiradentes, gave his name to the main square. The town has a university, and a lively student atmosphere, which contrasts with its historic character. It is a quiet town of hills and mist, with excellent food and a hospitable culture.
Why visit
Ouro Preto is the finest colonial town in Brazil, and a highlight of the interior.
Churches decorated with gilded carving, painted ceilings and sculptures by Aleijadinho.
Mines, museums and mansions from the era that shaped Brazil.
Steep cobbled streets, colonial houses and mountain views.
Hearty, comforting food such as tutu de feijão, pão de queijo and doce de leite.
Mariana, Tiradentes and São João del-Rei are within reach.
Main attractions
The centre is small and walkable, and a full day covers the churches.
A masterpiece of Brazilian baroque, designed by Aleijadinho, with a ceiling painted by Ataíde. The façade, with its sculpted medallions, is a highlight.
Tip Visit early, and check the opening times.
The main square, with a statue of Tiradentes and the Museu da Inconfidência in a former town hall and jail, which tells of the 1789 conspiracy and the gold-rush era.
Tip Start here.
A church richly decorated with hundreds of kilograms of gold, and one of the most lavish in Brazil, with a museum of sacred art.
Tip Photography is often not allowed.
A former gold mine that visitors can enter, with a story of an African king who bought his freedom.
Tip Wear comfortable shoes.
An older and quieter colonial town, 12 km away, with baroque churches and the oldest city in Minas Gerais. A tourist train links it with Ouro Preto.
Tip Take the train.
A museum of small household shrines, with more than a thousand pieces.
Tip A short visit.
Things to do
Ouro Preto is for slow walking and church-going.
Explore the hills and viewpoints.
Tip Wear good shoes.
See carved altars and painted ceilings.
Tip Buy a combined ticket.
Go underground at the Chico Rei mine.
Tip Bring a jacket.
A scenic ride on a historic train.
Tip Check the timetable.
Doce de leite, goiabada and cachaça from Minas.
Tip Buy from local shops.
From viewpoints such as Morro da Forca and Praça Tiradentes.
Tip Bring a jacket.
Local food
Minas Gerais has the most beloved regional cooking in Brazil, hearty and warming.
A thick bean purée with cassava flour, served with pork, greens and rice.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants.
Chicken stewed with okra, a Minas classic.
Where to try it Family restaurants.
Chewy cheese rolls made with local cheese.
Where to try it Cafés and bakeries.
Sweet milk caramel and guava paste, eaten with white cheese.
Where to try it Shops and cafés.
Artisanal cachaça from Minas Gerais.
Where to try it Bars and shops.
Accommodation
Stay in the historic centre for atmosphere, with many pousadas in old houses.
Transport
Ouro Preto is about 100 km south-east of Belo Horizonte.
The centre is walkable, and steep.
When to go
Ouro Preto is in the highlands, so it is cool and misty, with a dry winter and a rainy summer.
Warm and wet, with heavy rain.
Mild and drying out.
Dry, sunny days and cold nights.
Warming, with the first rains.
Worth planning around: January and February, when rain is heavy. Semana Santa (Easter week) is a special, crowded time.
Itinerary
The churches and the square on the first day, and Mariana on the second.
Churches and history.
A colonial neighbour.
Travel tips
A few tips help you enjoy the town.
FAQ
Two days for the churches, museums and Mariana.
Yes, for baroque architecture and colonial history.
Antônio Francisco Lisboa, a sculptor and architect of the 18th century who created many of Minas Gerais's baroque masterpieces.
May to September.
By bus from Belo Horizonte, about 2 to 2.5 hours.
Yes, from Belo Horizonte, but a night is better.
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