Santa Cruz, southern Patagonia · Argentina
A 60-metre wall of blue ice groaning and crashing into a turquoise lake, one of the few advancing glaciers on earth, seen from walkways, boats and crampons.
Photo: Luca Galuzzi (Lucag) · CC BY-SA 2.5
El Calafate is a small town on the southern shore of Lago Argentino, the largest lake in Argentina, in Patagonia. It has grown from a sleepy sheep-farming outpost into a busy tourist town of hotels, restaurants and tour operators, and its purpose is one: to serve as the gateway to the Los Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981, which covers a vast landscape of ice, lakes and mountains at the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.
The star of the park is the Perito Moreno Glacier, about 30 km long and 5 km wide, that descends from the ice field to Lago Argentino. It is one of very few glaciers in the world that is stable or advancing rather than retreating, and its front, about 60 metres above the water, regularly calves huge blocks of ice with a thunderous crack. A network of walkways offers close views from the opposite bank, and boat trips and guided ice treks allow closer encounters.
The town is 80 km from the glacier, and it makes a good base for two or three days. Boat trips to the Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers, walks, estancia visits and evening lamb asados round out a stay, and it is the departure point for El Chaltén and Torres del Paine in Chile.
Why visit
Perito Moreno is one of the world's most accessible and dramatic glaciers, and a highlight of Patagonia.
Ice that groans, cracks and calves in view of the walkways.
Walkways, boats and treks for all abilities.
Boat trips reach Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers and icebergs.
Steppe, lakes and mountains beneath huge skies.
The town links Patagonia's great sights.
Main attractions
The glacier is the main event, with boat trips and estancias as options.
About 4 km of steel walkways and viewing platforms facing the glacier, from which you can watch and hear the ice calving.
Tip Go early or late, and be patient.
A boat trip along the glacier's face, at a safe distance, gives a sense of its scale, with cliffs of ice towering overhead.
Tip Book combined tickets.
Guided walks on the glacier's surface with crampons, through crevasses and ice caves, ending with a whisky on the ice.
Tip Book in advance, and check fitness and age limits.
Full-day boat trips to other glaciers in the national park, passing through icebergs to great ice walls.
Tip Go on a clear day.
A huge milky-turquoise glacial lake, with viewpoints along the shore of El Calafate and the road to the glacier.
Tip Try Laguna Nimez, a bird reserve on the edge of town.
Patagonian sheep ranches near El Calafate, such as Estancia Cristina, offer horseback riding, lunch and tours.
Tip Book a day visit.
Things to do
Most visitors spend at least one day at the glacier, and the rest exploring.
Listen for the cracks, and watch for calving.
Tip Bring a windproof jacket.
See crevasses and blue ice up close.
Tip Wear waterproof layers.
See enormous icebergs and a vast glacier front.
Tip Book the full-day trip.
Cordero patagónico is slow-roasted on a cross over an open fire.
Tip Try it at a local parrilla.
A museum about the ice field, with an ice bar.
Tip Good for a rainy day.
A 3-hour bus ride takes you to Argentina's hiking capital.
Tip Book the bus ahead.
Local food
El Calafate's food centres on Patagonian lamb, along with trout, calafate berries and craft beer.
Lamb slow-roasted over an open fire, tender and lightly smoky.
Where to try it Parrillas in El Calafate.
Fresh river and lake trout, grilled or baked.
Where to try it Restaurants on the main street.
The town's namesake berry, in jam, ice cream and liqueur. According to legend, those who eat it will return.
Where to try it Ice-cream shops.
Local microbreweries serve fresh beer.
Where to try it Brewpubs in town.
Traditional snacks.
Where to try it Cafés.
Accommodation
Most visitors stay in town. Estancias offer a more remote experience.
Transport
El Calafate is in southern Patagonia, about 2,700 km from Buenos Aires.
Buses and tours reach the glacier, and the town is walkable.
When to go
Summers are cool, and winters are cold, with most services closed from May to September.
Longest days, the warmest weather and the busiest time.
Fewer crowds, autumn colours and crisp days.
Cold, with limited services.
Cool and windy, with lower prices.
Worth planning around: Winter, when many hotels and tours close.
Itinerary
The glacier, the lake and a day of rest or estancia.
Settle in.
The main event.
More ice or ranch life.
Travel tips
A few tips help you plan the glacier visit.
FAQ
Two to three days. One is for the glacier, and one for other trips.
It has been relatively stable, unlike most glaciers, though it changes from year to year.
Yes, on guided ice treks with crampons, from Minitrekking to longer Big Ice tours.
October to April.
About 80 km, 1 hour by road.
Yes. Buses cross the border to Puerto Natales, about 5 to 6 hours.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with El Calafate, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Santa Cruz, southern Patagonia, Argentina
A hiker's paradise in Los Glaciares National Park, with day walks to Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre beneath some of the world's most dramatic granite peaks.
Don't miss Reaching Laguna de los Tres at dawn, as the first light turns the Fitz Roy needles orange above the frozen lagoon.
Explore Destination — El Chaltén and Fitz RoyTierra del Fuego, southern tip of Argentina, Argentina
A port at the end of the world, with Beagle Channel cruises, Tierra del Fuego National Park, the End of the World Train, penguins and the departure point for Antarctic cruises.
Don't miss Sailing the Beagle Channel past sea lions and the red-and-white Les Éclaireurs lighthouse, with the mountains behind.
Explore Destination — Ushuaia and Tierra del FuegoRío Negro and Neuquén, northern Patagonia, Argentina
Argentina's lakes and mountains playground: Nahuel Huapi National Park, the Circuito Chico, Llao Llao, Cerro Catedral, the Seven Lakes road and Villa La Angostura, with skiing in winter and hiking in summer.
Don't miss The Circuito Chico at sunset, with the lake turning pink and Llao Llao on its peninsula.
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