North Central Province · Sri Lanka
The medieval capital, a compact ruined city of carved Buddhas, a circular relic house and ancient gardens beside a vast lake with wild elephants.
Photo: Philip Nalangan · CC BY 4.0
Polonnaruwa succeeded Anuradhapura as the capital of Sri Lanka in the 11th century, first under the Chola invaders and then under the great Sinhalese kings Vijayabahu I and Parakramabahu I. In the 12th century, Parakramabahu created a magnificent city and the vast Parakrama Samudra, the Sea of Parakrama, a giant reservoir that irrigated the surrounding land. The city was abandoned in the 13th century, and its ruins are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Compared with Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa is compact and easier to explore. The Quadrangle is a raised terrace with the Vatadage, a circular relic house with carved moonstones and Buddha statues, and other shrines. The Royal Palace once had seven storeys. And the Gal Vihara, a group of four Buddha images carved from a single granite rock face, including a 14-metre reclining Buddha, is considered the finest example of Sinhalese rock carving.
The best way to see the site is by bicycle, early in the morning. Just outside, Minneriya and Kaudulla national parks host 'The Gathering', when hundreds of wild elephants gather at the reservoir in the dry season, from July to October. A day at Polonnaruwa, combined with an afternoon safari, is an excellent day.
Why visit
Polonnaruwa is the best-preserved and easiest-to-explore of Sri Lanka's ancient cities.
Four colossal Buddhas.
A circular relic house.
Easy by bicycle.
A vast ancient lake.
At nearby Minneriya.
Main attractions
The main sites are within a few kilometres.
A rock temple with four Buddha statues carved from granite in the 12th century, including a reclining Buddha and a standing one.
Tip Visit early or late.
A raised terrace with the circular Vatadage, the Hatadage and Atadage shrines.
Tip Look at the moonstones.
A seasonal gathering of wild elephants on the reservoir shores from July to October.
Tip Book an afternoon jeep.
The ruined palace of Parakramabahu with thick walls.
Tip Imagine the seven storeys.
The huge reservoir, with sunset views.
Tip Go at sunset.
A giant image house with a headless Buddha.
Tip Impressive walls.
Things to do
Ride, look and watch.
Flat roads.
Tip Go early.
At Minneriya.
Tip Book a jeep.
Parakrama Samudra.
Tip Bring a camera.
For history.
Tip Agree the fee.
Artefacts.
Tip Optional.
45 minutes away.
Tip Plan a day.
Local food
Food is simple.
Village style.
Where to try it Guesthouses.
Freshwater fish.
Where to try it Restaurants.
Street food.
Where to try it Stalls.
Fresh.
Where to try it Roadside.
With treacle.
Where to try it Shops.
Accommodation
Stay in the new town or near the lake.
Transport
Polonnaruwa is in the north-central plains.
Bicycles are best.
When to go
Polonnaruwa is dry and hot from May to September.
Warm.
Dry.
Heavy rain.
Cooler.
Worth planning around: The October to November rains.
Itinerary
The ruins and elephants.
Ruins and safari.
Travel tips
A few tips help you plan.
FAQ
One day.
Polonnaruwa is more compact.
Elephants gathering at the reservoir.
May to September.
Yes.
Yes.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Polonnaruwa, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Central Province, Cultural Triangle, Sri Lanka
The 5th-century rock fortress of Sigiriya, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with frescoes, water gardens and lion's paw gates, plus Pidurangala Rock and the cave temples of Dambulla.
Don't miss Reaching the summit of Sigiriya Rock, with the ruined palace beneath your feet and the jungle spread to the horizon.
Explore Destination — Sigiriya and DambullaNorth Central Province, Sri Lanka
A UNESCO-listed ancient capital, active as a pilgrimage centre, with the Sri Maha Bodhi tree, the Ruwanwelisaya and Jetavanaramaya stupas, monasteries, ponds and palace ruins.
Don't miss Watching pilgrims in white circle the Ruwanwelisaya stupa at dawn with flowers and lamps.
Explore Destination — AnuradhapuraCentral Province, hill country, Sri Lanka
A hill-country city with the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, Kandy Lake, Kandyan dance, Peradeniya Botanical Gardens and the base for tea country trains.
Don't miss The evening puja at the Temple of the Tooth, with drummers, incense and pilgrims in white.
Explore Destination — KandyRead next
Heritage
A UNESCO listing tells you a place matters; it does not tell you whether it is worth two days and a detour. This is how to read the list usefully — and which sites reward building a trip around them.
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The most visited place in a country is rarely its best, and it is almost never its best value. This is a method for finding the destinations that do not make the postcards — and a set of examples from five of the 50 countries on this site.
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