Valparaiso Region, central coast · Chile
A colourful port city of steep hills, ascensores, murals and poets.
Valparaiso rises from the Pacific in a jumble of steep hills, brightly painted houses and winding staircases. Once the most important port on the Pacific coast of South America, it declined after the opening of the Panama Canal, and its faded grandeur and bohemian spirit are now part of the charm. The historic quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The best way to see it is to wander the hills, especially Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion, with their murals, cafes, galleries and views. Old funiculars, called ascensores, connect the hills with the flat port area below. Pablo Neruda's house, La Sebastiana, is a short ride away and is full of curious objects.
Nearby Vina del Mar is a more formal seaside resort with beaches and gardens, and the area also has seafood restaurants and coastal towns. Expect to climb a lot, and watch your valuables in the port area.
Why visit
Valparaiso is the most photogenic city in Chile.
A riot of colour.
Murals on every corner.
Historic ascensores still run.
Neruda's home.
Ocean vistas over lunch.
Main attractions
Most of the sights are on the hills near the port.
The most visited hill, with cafes and murals.
Tip Walk down rather than up.
A quieter hill with boutique hotels.
Tip Take the Ascensor Reina Victoria.
Historic funiculars.
Tip Carry small coins.
Neruda's hillside home, now a museum.
Tip Take a taxi up.
Cranes and boat tours.
Tip Go in daylight.
A seaside resort with gardens.
Tip Short train ride.
Things to do
Valparaiso is for wandering, eating and photographing.
Up Concepcion or Artilleria.
Tip Use the older ones.
A guided or free tour.
Tip Tip your guide.
Neruda's eclectic house.
Tip Book a time slot.
Short trip around the bay.
Tip Go on a clear day.
Fresh fish and stews.
Tip Try Mercado Cardonal.
Gardens and beaches.
Tip Take the Metro Valparaiso.
Local food
The port has great seafood.
Conger eel soup.
Where to try it Seafood restaurants.
Raw fish in lime.
Where to try it Waterfront.
Seafood pastries.
Where to try it Bakeries.
Fries with beef and eggs.
Where to try it Bars.
Wine and ice cream drink.
Where to try it Bars.
Accommodation
Stay on the hills for atmosphere.
Transport
Valparaiso is an easy trip from Santiago.
Walk the hills, and use ascensores.
When to go
Spring to autumn is warm and dry, though summer brings crowds.
Mild with flowers.
Warm and busy.
Warm and calmer.
Cool and damp.
Worth planning around: Winter, when it is cold, misty and damp.
Itinerary
Hills, art and coast.
Ascensores and murals
La Sebastiana
Travel tips
Tips for visiting.
FAQ
Yes in tourist areas with care.
One to two days.
Yes.
Alegre and Concepcion.
Some are, check locally.
No.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Valparaiso, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
Chile's capital and gateway: Plaza de Armas, La Moneda, Mercado Central, bohemian barrios, hill-top parks and Maipo Valley wineries within an hour.
Don't miss Looking out from Cerro San Cristobal as the Andes glow pink at dusk.
Explore Destination — SantiagoCoquimbo Region, northern Chile, Chile
A green valley in the Andean foothills with pisco distilleries, observatories, the village of Pisco Elqui, Gabriela Mistral's home and stargazing.
Don't miss Sipping pisco in a village under one of the clearest night skies in the world.
Explore Destination — Elqui ValleyLos Lagos Region, Chile
A relaxed lakeside base for Petrohue Falls, Lake Todos los Santos, Vicente Perez Rosales National Park and kuchen cafes.
Don't miss Watching Osorno volcano turn pink at sunset over Lake Llanquihue.
Explore Destination — Puerto Varas and the Lake DistrictRead next
Food
Eating well abroad is mostly a matter of knowing when meals happen, how the menu is structured and which dish belongs to the place you are standing in. This covers all three for the five countries in this guide, plus the signals that separate a restaurant that feeds locals from one that feeds coaches.
Practical
Most packing advice is a list of things. This is the opposite: the small number of decisions that determine whether your luggage helps or hinders, organised by the kind of trip you are actually taking.
Advertisement
.jpg){kind=link}